Monday, August 10, 2009

X & Y Sliders method 2

X and Y axis sliders method 2 tyring to avoid drilling big holes in wood and keeping it simple to make. Making the sliders out of Nylon corner fixing blocks.


Here are the pictures of the construction.. :-



Y slider build

Materials :-

16 Nylon corner fixing blocks with the central hole drilled out to 8mm.
8 Nylon corner fixing blocks as they come.
16 Skate bearings.
8 8mm hex bolts/Roofing bolts 40mm long.
8 8mm washers.
18 8mm nuts.
2 8mm Steel bar 500mm long
8 4mm machine screws 70mm long.
4 4mm machine screws 30mm long.
12 4mm nuts.
1 ASDA / Wallmart flat chopping board cut to the drawings supplied.

Tools used:-
Pedestal drill, 22mm wood bit, 8mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.
or
Hand held drill, 22mm wood bit, 8mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.


Method used:-

Note:- You must use a vice or make a little jig to hold the Nylon corner fixing blocks not only for safety but to maintain accuracy.

Clamped the Nylon corner fixing block in the vice then re-drill the single 4mm hole with the 8mm drill.



Make the two Y slider plates from the Chopping board cut 2 pieces 75mm x 95mm.
One piece is for the X stepper motor the other for the X pulley. So for the stepper end drill out the four 3mm motor mounting holes and the central hole is drilled out to 22mm. On the pulley end X-Y slider only the central pulley hole needs to be drilled out to 8mm. The red marked holes are drilled out to 4mm. The other 8 holes are 3mm for tie wrapping the Y axis chain or belt to the slider.



Now make the four bearing assemblies using the 8 4mm machine screws 70mm long.
Each assembly is made so that the screw heads and nuts are set into the counter bores of the 4mm mounting holes see the picture.



The bearings can now be fitted first a washer the bearing nut bearing and then last nut. repeat for all 4 subassemblies. The x-y sliders can now be completed by adding the last few nylon blocks and the x-y slider mounting plate.



Now the x Slider rails can be hammerd with a rubber hammer into place any extra length of the slider rails must be at the pulley end not the stepper end of the assembly .




Time taken:-
Around 40 minuets or less.


X slider build

Materials :-

4 Nylon corner fixing blocks with the central hole drilled out to 8mm.
8 Nylon corner fixing blocks as they come.
1 ASDA / Wallmart flat chopping board cut to the drawings supplied.
2 4mm machine screws 30mm long.
4 4mm machine screws 60mm long.
4 4mm machine screws 70mm long.
12 4mm nuts.
16 Skate bearings.
2 8mm hex bolts 100mm long.
4 8mm hex bolts/Roofing bolts 40mm long.
18 8mm nuts.
8 8mm washers.

Tools used:-
Pedestal drill, 8mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.
or
Hand held drill, 8mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.


Method used:-

Note:- You must use a vice or make a little jig to hold the Nylon corner fixing blocks not only for safety but to maintain accuracy.

Clamp the Nylon corner fixing block in the vice then re-drill the single 4mm hole with the 8mm drill.

Make the Extruder carriage from the Chopping board cut a piece 75mm x 87mm I have copied the universal tool mounting holes from the reprap drawings.


Make two of these drive clamp plates.



The blocks have a slight slope so they must be screwed together with the slope facing inwards using the 60mm and 70mm screws. The asembly of the X carridge is the same process as used for the X-Y slider



Time taken:-
Around 40 minuets or less.

6 comments:

BodgeIt said...

I will be trying an X-Y slider method 3 this is a cost cuting idea so it will not work as well as the X-Y slider method 2.

nophead said...

How do the bearings exactly meet the rods at four points? Is it just a fortunate coincidence that three blocks plus the nuts and washers give exactly the right spacing?

BodgeIt said...

Its a happy coincedence... ;-)

And by making use of the very slight slope on the blocks the slope is the mould release angle i think..

So by djusting the assembly screw presure.. you adjust the bearing presure on the 8mm bar.

imprical design.. just found by phisical experimentation...

The target to make RepRap darwin cheap to build at home without RP parts so any one can have one.

nophead said...

"The target to make RepRap darwin cheap to build at home without RP parts so any one can have one."

Yes it is a shame because the whole idea of RepRap is that anyone can have one cheap with the RP parts!

BodgeIt said...

I know that is the original aim.. but in practice its a very very slow process to do that.

There has to be a significant number of Darwins to start the process off.

There are many like me who like the idea but hit the frustration of not being able to actualy get RP parts or even figure out how to make substitues for some of them..

I could never justify spending £750 on a kit of bits to build one. Thats the cost of the Kits.

Bit like Solar power in the UK it has very % of take up the system I am installing if purchased from the many many installers would be in the order of 5 to 10 times what I will pay. my system will be paid for within two years from the power saved/generated not the 10 to 15 years or whatever the curent pay back quote is.

I see Open source or shared commons as a method to share to encorage to nurcher and build a better world quicker.

BodgeIt said...

Afte all these years maybe Im a hippy after all..