Y Rod mount amd Y motor mount

Y Rod mount amd Y motor mount this uses the Nylon corner fixing blocks and 6mm or 1/4 MDF the ASDA Chopping block is to flexible for these parts... ;( as I tried.



Y Slider Rod mounting blocks

Materials :-

2 Nylon corner fixing blocks with the central hole drilled out to 8.5mm. (8.5 mm bearing blocks)
1 Nylon corner fixing blocks with the central hole drilled out to 6.5mm. (6.5 mm bearing block)
4 Nylon corner fixing blocks with all the holes drilled out to 8mm.
13 Nylon corner fixing blocks as they come.
2 8mm Steel bar 500mm long
6 4mm machine screws 50mm long.
2 4mm machine screws 35mm long.
28 4mm nuts.
A small piece of 6mm MDF

Tools used:-
Pedestal drill, 8.5mm, 8mm, 6.5 mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.
or
Hand held drill, 8.5mm, 8mm, 6.5 mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.


Method used:-

Note:- You must use a vice or make a little jig to hold the Nylon corner fixing blocks not only for safety but to maintain accuracy.

Clamped the Nylon corner fixing blocks in the vice then re-drill the single 4mm hole two with an 8.5mm drill 4 with the 8mm drill and one with the 6.5mm drill.

Then make three MDF Rod mount plates like this.



Now assemble the two bearing assemblies using the 6 4mm machine screws 60mm long.
Three standard Nylon corner fixing blocks with one 8.5 bearing Nylon corner fixing blocks.
Each assembly is made so that the screw heads and nuts are set into the counter bores of the 4mm mounting holes. the completed assemblies are then bolted to the Y axis slider rod mounting plate on the 4mm holes nearest the edge of the plate. The slider rod end stop is also a standard Nylon corner fixing block this screwed into the pair of 4mm holes in he middle of the plate. Repeat this for the single 6.5 mm bearing block just fit the 6.5mm beaing block instead of an 8mm one. This is makes a pair with the stepper motor mounting assembly.






Then make one of MDF Rod & motor mount plates. Note if you are using Bike chain as your drive you must make a four sided housing. Else just make the first two plates



Now assemble the stepper motor mounting assemblie using the 2 4mm machine screws 35mm long. Two standard Nylon corner fixing blocks are screwd together using the 35mm screws then they are bolted to the Y axis Stepper motor slider rod mounting plate on the 4mm holes nearest the edge of the plate. The slider rod end stop is also a standard Nylon corner fixing block this screwed into the pair of 4mm holes in he middle of the plate. Repeat this for the single 6.5 mm bearing block just fit the 6.5mm beaing block instead of an 8mm one. This is makes a pair with the stepper motor mounting assembly.

Then make one of MDF motor mount plate.
(Note adjust the 16mm centers to suit your stepper motors)



Top plate for Chain drive system.



Inner End plate for four sided motor mount using bike chain.






Now assemble the stepper motor mounting assemblie using the 2 4mm machine screws 35mm long. Two standard Nylon corner fixing blocks are screwd together using the 35mm screws then they are bolted to the Y axis Stepper motor slider rod mounting plate on the 4mm holes nearest the edge of the plate. The slider rod end stop is also a standard Nylon corner fixing block this screwed into the pair of 4mm holes in he middle of the plate. Repeat this for the single 6.5 mm bearing block just fit the 6.5mm beaing block instead of an 8mm one. This is makes a pair with the stepper motor mounting assembly.


Now the Y Slider rails can be hammerd with a rubber hammer into place any extra length of the slider rails must be at the pulley end not the stepper end of the assembly .




Time taken:-
Around 30 minuets or less.

X and Y axis sliders method 3

X and Y axis sliders method I have just tyed this method wich is even simpler it avoids using skate bearings altogether and just uses the Nylon corner fixing blocks.

I am total amazed by this one I expected this to have more friction than the skate bearings and for it to have a lot of play.. neither is the case it is also very very much lighter as it has not got 32 skate bearings. I cant belive how simple the X & Y mechanisims are now and its £16 cheaper to buy..


Here are the pictures of the construction.. :-




Y slider build

Materials :-

8 Nylon corner fixing blocks with the central hole drilled out to 8mm.
4 Nylon corner fixing blocks with the central hole drilled out to 8.5mm.
4 Nylon corner fixing blocks as they come.
2 8mm Steel bar 500mm long
8 4mm machine screws 50mm long.
4 4mm machine screws 30mm long.
12 4mm nuts.
1 ASDA / Wallmart flat chopping board cut to the drawings supplied.

Tools used:-
Pedestal drill, 22mm wood bit, 8.5mm, 8mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.
or
Hand held drill, 22mm wood bit, 8.5mm, 8mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.


Method used:-

Note:- You must use a vice or make a little jig to hold the Nylon corner fixing blocks not only for safety but to maintain accuracy.

Clamped the Nylon corner fixing block in the vice then re-drill the single 4mm hole with the 8mm drill.



Make two of these drive belt / chain clamp plates.




Make the two Y slider plates from the Chopping board cut 2 pieces 75mm x 95mm.
One piece is for the X stepper motor the other for the X pulley. So for the stepper end drill out the four 3mm motor mounting holes and the central hole is drilled out to 22mm. On the pulley end X-Y slider only the central pulley hole needs to be drilled out to 8mm. The red marked holes are drilled out to 4mm. The other 8 holes are 3mm for tie wrapping the Y axis chain or belt to the slider.



Now make the four bearing assemblies using the 8 4mm machine screws 50mm long.
Each assembly is made so that the screw heads and nuts are set into the counter bores of the 4mm mounting holes.

The asembly is so simple jst look at the pictures now.

Now the x Slider rails can be hammerd with a rubber hammer into place any extra length of the slider rails must be at the pulley end not the stepper end of the assembly .




Time taken:-
Around 30 minuets or less.


X slider build

Materials :-

4 Nylon corner fixing blocks with the central hole drilled out to 8.5mm.
8 Nylon corner fixing blocks as they come.
1 ASDA / Wallmart flat chopping board cut to the drawings supplied.
2 4mm machine screws 30mm long.
4 4mm machine screws 60mm long.
4 4mm machine screws 70mm long.
12 4mm nuts.

Tools used:-
Pedestal drill, 8.5mm, 8mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.
or
Hand held drill, 8.5mm, 8mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.


Method used:-

Note:- You must use a vice or make a little jig to hold the Nylon corner fixing blocks not only for safety but to maintain accuracy.

Clamp the Nylon corner fixing block in the vice then re-drill the single 4mm hole with the 8.5mm drill.

Make the Extruder carriage from the Chopping board cut a piece 75mm x 87mm I have copied the universal tool mounting holes from the reprap drawings.


Make two of these drive clamp plates.



The blocks have a slight slope so they must be screwed together one one way the next the other way to cancele out the slope. The asembly of the X carridge is the same process as used for the X-Y slider



Time taken:-
Around 30 minuets or less.

X & Y Sliders method 2

X and Y axis sliders method 2 tyring to avoid drilling big holes in wood and keeping it simple to make. Making the sliders out of Nylon corner fixing blocks.


Here are the pictures of the construction.. :-



Y slider build

Materials :-

16 Nylon corner fixing blocks with the central hole drilled out to 8mm.
8 Nylon corner fixing blocks as they come.
16 Skate bearings.
8 8mm hex bolts/Roofing bolts 40mm long.
8 8mm washers.
18 8mm nuts.
2 8mm Steel bar 500mm long
8 4mm machine screws 70mm long.
4 4mm machine screws 30mm long.
12 4mm nuts.
1 ASDA / Wallmart flat chopping board cut to the drawings supplied.

Tools used:-
Pedestal drill, 22mm wood bit, 8mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.
or
Hand held drill, 22mm wood bit, 8mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.


Method used:-

Note:- You must use a vice or make a little jig to hold the Nylon corner fixing blocks not only for safety but to maintain accuracy.

Clamped the Nylon corner fixing block in the vice then re-drill the single 4mm hole with the 8mm drill.



Make the two Y slider plates from the Chopping board cut 2 pieces 75mm x 95mm.
One piece is for the X stepper motor the other for the X pulley. So for the stepper end drill out the four 3mm motor mounting holes and the central hole is drilled out to 22mm. On the pulley end X-Y slider only the central pulley hole needs to be drilled out to 8mm. The red marked holes are drilled out to 4mm. The other 8 holes are 3mm for tie wrapping the Y axis chain or belt to the slider.



Now make the four bearing assemblies using the 8 4mm machine screws 70mm long.
Each assembly is made so that the screw heads and nuts are set into the counter bores of the 4mm mounting holes see the picture.



The bearings can now be fitted first a washer the bearing nut bearing and then last nut. repeat for all 4 subassemblies. The x-y sliders can now be completed by adding the last few nylon blocks and the x-y slider mounting plate.



Now the x Slider rails can be hammerd with a rubber hammer into place any extra length of the slider rails must be at the pulley end not the stepper end of the assembly .




Time taken:-
Around 40 minuets or less.


X slider build

Materials :-

4 Nylon corner fixing blocks with the central hole drilled out to 8mm.
8 Nylon corner fixing blocks as they come.
1 ASDA / Wallmart flat chopping board cut to the drawings supplied.
2 4mm machine screws 30mm long.
4 4mm machine screws 60mm long.
4 4mm machine screws 70mm long.
12 4mm nuts.
16 Skate bearings.
2 8mm hex bolts 100mm long.
4 8mm hex bolts/Roofing bolts 40mm long.
18 8mm nuts.
8 8mm washers.

Tools used:-
Pedestal drill, 8mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.
or
Hand held drill, 8mm, 4mm, 3mm drills, Wood saw and vice.


Method used:-

Note:- You must use a vice or make a little jig to hold the Nylon corner fixing blocks not only for safety but to maintain accuracy.

Clamp the Nylon corner fixing block in the vice then re-drill the single 4mm hole with the 8mm drill.

Make the Extruder carriage from the Chopping board cut a piece 75mm x 87mm I have copied the universal tool mounting holes from the reprap drawings.


Make two of these drive clamp plates.



The blocks have a slight slope so they must be screwed together with the slope facing inwards using the 60mm and 70mm screws. The asembly of the X carridge is the same process as used for the X-Y slider



Time taken:-
Around 40 minuets or less.

X & Y Sliders method 1 (depricated)

X and Y axis sliders I realy like the Idea of re-using the skate bearings as linear slides as they realy slide well on the 8mm bar. I tried several ideas and ended up with the following design.

Making the sliders out of four pecies of 2" x " actualy its really 44mm x 44mm now.

Here are the pictures of the construction.. :-

X slider build


Materials :-

1 peice 22mm copper pipe 65mm long.
2 peice 22mm copper pipe 35mm long.
2 peice of 44mm x 44mm x 78mm long,
3 Skate bearings.

Tools used:-
Pedestal drill, 22 mm wood bit, 10mm wood bit, 6mm drill, 4mm drill,Pipe cutter, Wood saw and vice.
or
Hand held drill, 22 mm wood bit, 10mm wood bit, 6mm, 4mm drill, drill Pipe cutter, Wood saw and vice.


Method used:-

Note:- You must use a vice or make a little jig to hold the wood blocks not only for safty but to mantain acuracy.

Cut the copper pipe to size. Cut the 44mm x 44mm wood to length mark he center of the longest axis clamp both together and drill a 6mm hole mark all the sides of the joined parts so you can put them together again. Bolt the two parts together now mark the centers of the running bars on the same side. Very carefully drill the two pilot holes I used a 4 mm drill.
Seperate the two pices of wood then carefully drill from the inside face of each the two 22mm holes in each piece stopping to leave 4mm thick wood at the bottom of the each deep hole. Now from the other side of each hole drill a 10mm hole.


The blocks are finished push 1 skate bearing into the first hole on each block and pop the long pice of pipe in one side. Put the two pieces of short copper pipe in the other holes with the third bearing in the one side push together both parts slide the bars in both holes when assembly slides bolt the two parts together.

Time taken:-
Around 40 minuets or less.

Drawing:-
None yet

Y slider build


Materials :-


2 peice 22mm copper pipe 31mm long.
2 peice of 44mm x 44mm x 50mm long,
4 Skate bearings.

Tools used:-
Pedestal drill, 22 mm wood bit, 10mm wood bit, 6mm drill, 4mm drill, Pipe cutter, Wood saw and vice.
or
Hand held drill, 22 mm wood bit, 10mm wood bit, 6mm drill, 4mm drill, Pipe cutter, Wood saw and vice.


Method used:-

Note:- You must use a vice or make a little jig to hold the wood blocks not only for safty but to mantain acuracy.

Cut the copper pipe to size. Cut the 44mm x 44mm wood to length mark he center of the longest side clamp both together and drill a 6mm that is 15mm from one end. Very carefully drill the pilot holes I used a 4 mm drill now carefuly drill the two 22mm holes in each piece stopping to leave 4mm thick wood at the bottom of the each hole. Now from the other side of each hole drill a 10mm hole.


The blocks are finished push 1 skate bearing into the hole on each block followed by the 31mm piece of pipe and the other skate bearing test your asembled Y slides on an 8mm running bar.

Time taken:-
Around 20 minuets or less.

Drawing:-
None yet

Making 20 Diagonal tie brackets & 4 anti vibration feet

Materials :-
I pack of 24 Nylon corner fixing blocks.

Tools used:-
Pedestal drill, 8 mm standard drill, bolt down pedestal drill vice.
Or
Hand held drill, 8 mm standard drill and small vice.

Method used:-

Note:- You must use a vice or make a little jig to hold the nylon corner brackets. The hard nylon corner blocks really do hurt if they get to spin on the end of the drill.

Clamped the Nylon corner fixing block in the vice then re-drill the 5mm hole with the 8mm drill flip through 90 degrees and drill the other hole.

As there is already a hole in the Nylon corner fixing blocks the drill will self centre. As you are drilling plastic the drill will snatch and spin the block if you are not using a vice if you make a jig to drill several at once make sure it holds the top block down as well as preventing spinning.


Time taken:-
Around 30 minuets or less.

Drawing:-
None re-drilling holes.

Making 4 anti-vibration feet.

Materials :-
2 packs of two rubber door stops.
1 pack of four 25mm washers.

Tools used:-
Pedestal drill, 8 mm standard drill, bolt down pedestal drill vice.
Or
Hand held drill, 8 mm standard drill and small vice.

Method used:-

Note:- You must use a vice as any spinning object is dangerous

Clamped the rubber door stop then re-drill the 5mm hole with the 8mm drill.

As there is already a hole in the rubber door stop the drill will self centre. As you are drilling rubber it can snatch and spin.


Time taken:-
Around 10 minuets or less.

Drawing:-
None re-use of door stops.

Making the Darwin corner blocks.

Materials :-
Hard wood blocks bought from my local Hobby craft shop 7.99 per pack of assorted hardwood blocks take a ruler measure blocks in the pack before purchase.

Tools used:-
Pedestal drill, Compound mitre saw, 8 mm wood bit drill, 8.5 mm standard drill, 2.5mm standard drill, G clamp, bolt down pedestal drill vice, Electronic digital calliper (Maplin), small off cut of 2x2 Softwood, 3mm screw tap.

Method used:-
Note:- I Checked and double checked safety and dimensions several times before cutting.
I Clamped the 2x2 softwood to the mitre saw fence set it to cut 44mm.
Then cut the hobby craft blocks down length wise.
I rotated the length of 44 mm wide through 90 degrees and cut length wise again.
I Clamped the 2x2 softwood to the mitre saw fence set it to cut 33mm.
Now turn the 44mm x 44mm so you can cut 8 33 mm blocks I got 5 from each length.
I Checked and double checked safety and dimensions several times before cutting.
I cut MDF scrap first to check the cut position was correct.

I then checked the dimensions of all the blocks and the squareness. I marked up the two holes on the 33mm side positioned the pedestal drill vice bolted it in position marked the vice with pencil lines to line up the blocks then and drilled the first block rotated it through 90 degrees and flipped the block over and drilled through. I repeated this for all the blocks like this using the 8 mm drill. I then changed the drill for the 8.5 mm drill and repeated the operation for all 8/10 blocks. I marked up the top of one of the blocks with the 4 holes re set up the vice to drill one of these holes put the 8mm drill back in positioned block in vice marked the lock position in pencil on the vice drilled one hole rotated the block 90 degrees drilled the next hole in the block repeated this twice more. This was repeated for all 8/10 blocks. changed the drill to 8.5 and re drilled all the blocks again. I repeated the same process for the 2 mm holes on the drawing I changed the size of hole to 2.5 mm to tap 3mm threads in to the wood.

Time taken:-
One evening about 4 hours.

Drawing:-
Dimensions for manufacturing these blocks this was a saved PDF file found some place on the Rep Rap Main page needless to say even after down loading the whole of the REP RAP site and searching through the files I still cant find this PDF file to provide a link so here is the relevant excerpt. The document could have been called handmade-parts.pdf it is by Joost van de Wiel

How to build a Rep Strap Darwin.

My personal documented history of building a Rep Strap Darwin, meaning a Darwin Built without any Rep Rap Parts. Built in the UK with the aim to maintain a minimal cost of parts. This Blog will detail all of the drawings required, price of parts and the suppliers used in the project. Providing any additional information and experiences during construction.

The Starting point.

Monday, October 20, 2008

Steel frame Kit orderd

Ordered the Steel Frame Kit from Bits From Bytes as because I don't know any suppliers up in the north west, did not have time to find a supplier of the raw steel it was a lazy option I guess.
(I know plenty of places in the South east 240 miles away ~ the main draw back of relocation is loss of local knowledge)

Anticipating the arrival of this kit I used a jigsaw to cut the Darwin print platform out of MDF tonight.

From Blogger Pictures

As I now have almost two full sets of working electronics so I though might as well have two set ups to play with; A wooden Darwin driven by Sanguino and the Rep Strap Bertha driven by the Arudrino.

From Blogger Pictures

I also have a 500mm x 500mm x 500mm CNC in the process of being constructed based on the experiences of the Rep Strap Bertha build. Still using draw slides but 24" heavy duty ones some thing like a 50kg load capacity per pair. I will wait for the new new Stepper Motor Driver v2.0 PCB kit from Zack to drive this beast. I have created another Blog called Big Bertha CNC to document the progress of this project. http://bigberthacnc.blogspot.com/ this will run behind and along side the other two Blogs and will have the ability to use an extruder as well.